Should You Restore or Replace Cloudy Headlights?

Three checks you can do in two minutes

You do not need tools for this. Do it in daylight, with the car parked and the lights off.

• Touch: run a fingertip across the lens. Rough, gritty or chalky means the outer surface is oxidized, which restoration fixes.
• Look inside: shine your phone's flashlight through the lens at an angle. If you can see the bulb and reflector clearly through a yellow tint, the damage is on the outside. Droplets, fog or a water line inside means a seal has failed.
• Wipe test: wipe a small area with a damp cloth. If it looks clear while wet and goes cloudy again as it dries, the haze is surface oxidation.

Signs restoration will work

Restoration fixes damage to the outer surface of the plastic lens. That covers most yellow headlights, especially on cars that are six or more years old and parked outside.

A typical example: one of our first jobs was a 2012 Ford F-150 in Geist with hazy, oxidized headlights. The damage was all on the outside, and the lenses went from hazy to clear in about 30 minutes.

• The lens looks yellow, foggy or chalky
• The surface feels rough when you run a finger over it
• The haze is even across the lens rather than in spots inside
• Light peeling or flaking of the old factory coating on the top of the lens

Signs you need a new headlight

Some problems are inside the housing, where restoration cannot reach.

• Water droplets or fog trapped inside the lens
• Cracks or chips that go through the lens
• Silver reflectors inside that look burnt, peeling or brown
• Lights that stay dim or flicker after the lens is clear (an electrical or bulb issue)
• A broken mounting tab, so the headlight moves when you push on it

What about very bad haze?

Even lenses that look almost white can usually be restored, as long as the damage is on the outside. Heavy oxidation takes more sanding, but the steps are the same, and every lens we restore is finished with GlasWeld's UV-cured clear coat. Deep pitting from years of road debris may leave a few small marks after restoration, and we will tell you before we start if we expect that.

Why restoring first usually makes sense

New assemblies can cost hundreds of dollars per side, and more for LED or adaptive headlights. Restoration costs a fraction of that and keeps the original part, which fits perfectly and is aimed correctly. If the lens is damaged inside, though, restoring the outside will not help, and paying for it would be a waste.

Not sure?

Text a clear photo of each headlight to (317) 707-1225. We will tell you whether restoration will help before you book anything. If it will not, we will say so, even though it means no job for us.

If you do replace them

Replacement assemblies come in three broad types: original parts from the dealer, certified aftermarket parts, and cheap uncertified copies. The cheapest copies can fit poorly, leak sooner or produce a poor beam pattern. If you replace, it is worth paying for a reputable part and having the aim checked after installation.

New assemblies also have a factory UV coating that will wear out over time, just like the originals did. Keeping them clean and parked out of the sun when you can helps them last.